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Dartmoor was
formed like the other two great moors of the West Country
, Bodmin Moor and Exmoor. after
the last
of
the Great Ice Ages. Due to the exposed position over the centuries, the
climate has exposed huge granite outcrops called ,Tors there are over
2160, such tors dotted about Dartmoor, and it is due to
the granite underlay, and the winds that are all to prevalent on
Dartmoor
that trees have failed to colonize the moor adding to its sense of
desolation. These tors a are the focus of an annual event
known as the Ten Tors Challenge,
(when over a thousand people, aged between
14 and 21, walk for distances of 35, 45, or 55, miles over 10 tors on
many differing routes. While many of the hills of Dartmoor have the
word 'Tor' in them quite a number do not. This however this does not
appear
to relate to whether there is an outcrop of rock on their summit. The
highest points on Dartmoor are High Willhays, 621m) and Yes
Tor 619m) on the northern
moor. On the southern moor, Eylesbarrow, and Ryder's Hill,
454m) and 515 m) respectively are the highest
points. Probably the best known tor on Dartmoor is
Haytor. Like Cornwall's, Bodmin Moor Dartmoor: has large
areas
of wet,
soggy, bogs, this is because of a thick layer of peat which
quickly absorbs the surface water and leaves the
surface
very wet indeed.
The majority of the prehistoric remains on
Dartmoor date back to the late Neolithic, and early Bronze Age.
Indeed, Dartmoor contains the largest concentration of Bronze Age
remains in the United Kingdom. Which suggests that this, was when a
larger population moved on to the hills of Dartmoor.
The climate in the Neolithic Period, was warmer than
today. And much of moorland was covered with trees. The
prehistoric settlers began clearing the forest, and established the
first farming communities. Ever since man first found out that by
rubbing
two sticks together caused fire, this simple act accelerated his
progress, it
was the main method of clearing land, to create pasture, and
farmland. Any areas considered un- suited for farming, tended to
be burned for livestock grazing. Over the centuries these Neolithic
practices greatly expanded the upland moor's, and contributed to the
acidification of the soil, and the accumulation of peat
bogs.
The nature of the soil, which is highly
acidic, means that no organic remains have survived. However, by
contrast, the high durability of the natural granite means that their
homes and monuments were preserved and can still to be found
in
abundance, as are the flint tools they used. It should be
noted
that a number of remains were
"restored" by enthusiastic
Victorians, who have, in
some cases, have placed their own interpretation on how an area
may have looked?
There are also an estimated 5,000 hut
circles still surviving today, despite the fact that many have been
raided over the centuries by the builders of the traditional dry stone
walls. These are the remnants of Bronze Age houses. The smallest are
around 6 ft (1.8 m) in diameter, and the largest may be up to five
times this size.
Some have L-shaped porches to protect
against wind and rain — some particularly good examples are
to be found at Grimspound. It is believed that they would have had a
conical roof, supported by timbers and covered in turf or thatch.
Many ancient structures, including the hut
circles at Grimspound, were reconstructed during the 19th century, the
most notably by civil engineer and historian Richard
Hansford Worth. Some of this work was based more on speculation than
archaeological expertise, and has since been criticized for its
inaccuracy. Dartmoor like its sister Exmoor, also has indigenous
ponies although it is a fair comment to say they are less famous, as
their Exmoor counterparts
Dartmoor, like Bodmin Moor, and
Exmoor abounds with myths, and legends.
It is reputedly the haunt of
pixies, a headless horseman, a mysterious pack of 'spectral hounds',
and a large black dog. During the Great Thunderstorm of 1638, Dartmoor
was even said to have been visited by the Devil.
Many landmarks have ancient legends, and ghost stories associated with
them, such as Jay's Grave, the ancient burial site at Childe's Tomb,
and a rock pile called Bowerman's Nose.
A few stories have emerged in recent decades, such as the 'hairy
hounds', that are said to attack travelers on the B3212 near Two
Bridges.
Dartmoor has inspired a number of artists and writers, such as
Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle's novel 'The Hound of the Baskervilles.' There is
however some
doubt about Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle's novel and some critics believe it was not all his
work? R D Blackmoor Eden Phillpotts,
Beatrice Chase, Agatha Christie, all have found literary
inspiration on Dartmoor.
There is a long tradition of Dartmoor being used by the military,
dating back to the Napoleonic wars. In 1805, Great Britain was at war
with Napoleonic France; a conflict during which thousands of prisoners
were taken and confined in prison “hulks” or
derelict ships. This was considered unsafe, partially due to the
proximity of the Royal Naval dockyard at Plymouth and as living
conditions were appalling in the extreme, a prisoner of war depot was
planned in the remote isolation of Dartmoor.
In 1806 construction started, taking three years to complete.
In 1809 the first French prisoners arrived. And were the first
prisoners to see the dreaded inscription on the entrance to the
prison: 'Abandon hope all
ye who enter here,' and later they were joined by
American
POWs taken in the war of 1812. At one time the prison population
numbered almost 6,000. Many prisoners died and were buried on the moor.
Both French, and American, wars were concluded in 1815, and
repatriations
began.
The prison then lay empty until 1850, when it was largely rebuilt and
commissioned as a convict gaol.
With the establishment of the prison farm in about 1852, all the
prisoners remains were exhumed and re-interred in two cemeteries behind
the prison.
Dartmoor Prison, reckoned in Victorian times to be the hardest and most
severe in England, has been in constant use from 1850 to the present
day.
In 1917 all convicts were withdrawn from Dartmoor, which was then used
to confine 1100 conscientious objectors who refused military service.
Until recently, Dartmoor Prison's inmates have been some of the most
dangerous and notorious in English penal history.
There is still a large Army
training camp at Okehampton, which was also the site of an airbase
during the Second World War.
The Ministry of Defense (MoD) uses three areas of the northern moor for
man oeuvres and live-firing exercises, totaling 108.71 km²
(41.9 mile²), or just over 11% of Dartmoor National Park. Red
and white posts mark the boundaries of these military areas (shown on
Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 maps). Flagpoles on many tors in, and around
the ranges will fly red flags, when firing is taking place. At other
times, members of the public are allowed access. Blank rounds may also
be used, but the MoD has no obligation to alert the civilian population
of this.
Those wishing to walk in the firing areas are advised to check the
firing times for the coming week by calling the MoD on 0800 4584868.
And if you are out and about on Dartmoor and see a very fit, warlike
band of young men, yompimg merrily? across the moor.
they are in all probality, Royal Marine Commandos.
Do not be alarmed I have it on good authority they are friendly. One
can find further advice on these or any other questions you might have
about Dartmoor, at the very informative official web site.
The
Military also help to stage some charitable challenge events,
which include the long established Ten Tors Race, ( a lot has been said
and written about the decline of the youth of today, well come to this
event and you will see the youth of our Country at its very best;
bright articulate young people who pit their brain and body's againts
the challenge that this event holds. ) And more recently
the Army
organized a
search for the Beast of Dartmoor; even they could not prove or disprove
if a beast infact exists?.
The very last Castle, to be built in England, Castle Drogo is
situated
at
Teign Gorge, and
has very dramatic views of the Moor. Drogo Castle, was built in between
1910-1920, by the famous architect Sir Edward Lutyens. Built entirely
of
local granite it is a
very fine example of Lutyens work. Though in all honesty although it is
called Castle Drogo, I think it should be regarded as a rich mans
vanity. For it was built for Julius
Drewe(wealthy businessman and founder of the Home
and Colonial Stores).
Like it's sister Exmoor , the moor has a
population of wild ponies. The
Dartmoor pony, has lived in southern Britain for centuries. And was
believed to have been brought to the West Country by the Romans. It
makes an
excellent first pony for a child, and is used for a variety of
disciplines. Because of the extreme weather conditions experienced on
the moors, the Dartmoor is a particularly hardy breed with excellent
stamina. Over the centuries it has been used as a working animal by
local tin miners and quarry workers.
Despite this, numbers have declined - from an estimated 25,800 in the
1930s to perhaps 5,000 today.

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