The Beautiful West Country

Wild Rugged & Remote Dartmoor National Park Devon

Dartmoor National Park

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Dartmoor was formed  like the other two great moors of the West Country , Bodmin Moor and Exmoor. after the last of the Great Ice Ages. Due to the exposed position over the centuries, the climate has exposed huge granite outcrops called ,Tors there are over 2160, such tors dotted about Dartmoor, and it is due to the granite underlay, and the winds that are all to prevalent on Dartmoor that trees have failed to colonize the moor adding to its sense of desolation. These tors a  are the focus of an annual event known as the Ten Tors Challenge, (when over a thousand people, aged between 14 and 21, walk for distances of 35, 45, or 55, miles over 10 tors on many differing routes. While many of the hills of Dartmoor have the word 'Tor' in them quite a number do not. This however this does not appear to relate to whether there is an outcrop of rock on their summit. The highest points on Dartmoor are High Willhays, 621m) and Yes Tor 619m) on the northern moor. On the southern moor,  Eylesbarrow, and Ryder's Hill, 454m) and 515 m) respectively are the highest points. Probably the best known tor on Dartmoor is Haytor.  Like Cornwall's, Bodmin Moor Dartmoor: has large areas of wet, soggy, bogs, this is because of a thick layer of peat which quickly absorbs the surface water and leaves the surface very wet indeed.

The majority of the prehistoric remains on Dartmoor date back to the late Neolithic, and early Bronze Age. Indeed, Dartmoor contains the largest concentration of Bronze Age remains in the United Kingdom. Which suggests that this, was when a larger population moved on to the hills of Dartmoor. The climate in the Neolithic Period, was warmer than today. And much of  moorland was covered with trees. The prehistoric settlers began clearing the forest, and established the first farming communities. Ever since man first found out that by rubbing two sticks together caused fire, this simple act accelerated his progress, it was the main method of clearing land, to create pasture, and  farmland. Any areas considered un- suited for farming, tended to be burned for livestock grazing. Over the centuries these Neolithic practices greatly expanded the upland moor's, and contributed to the acidification of the soil, and the accumulation of peat bogs. The nature of the soil, which is highly acidic, means that no organic remains have survived. However, by contrast, the high durability of the natural granite means that their homes and monuments were preserved and can  still to be found in abundance, as are the flint tools they used. It should be noted that a number of remains were "restored" by enthusiastic  Victorians, who have, in some cases, have placed their own interpretation on how an area may have looked?

There are also an estimated 5,000 hut circles still surviving today, despite the fact that many have been raided over the centuries by the builders of the traditional dry stone walls. These are the remnants of Bronze Age houses. The smallest are around 6 ft (1.8 m) in diameter, and the largest may be up to five times this size. Some have L-shaped porches to protect against wind and rain — some particularly good examples are to be found at Grimspound. It is believed that they would have had a conical roof, supported by timbers and covered in turf or thatch. Many ancient structures, including the hut circles at Grimspound, were reconstructed during the 19th century, the most notably by civil engineer and historian Richard Hansford Worth. Some of this work was based more on speculation than archaeological expertise, and has since been criticized for its inaccuracy. Dartmoor like its sister Exmoor, also has indigenous ponies although it is a fair comment to say they are less famous, as their Exmoor counterparts

Dartmoor, like Bodmin Moor, and Exmoor abounds with myths, and legends. It is reputedly the haunt of pixies, a headless horseman, a mysterious pack of 'spectral hounds', and a large black dog. During the Great Thunderstorm of 1638, Dartmoor was even said to have been visited by the Devil. Many landmarks have ancient legends, and ghost stories associated with them, such as Jay's Grave, the ancient burial site at Childe's Tomb, and a rock pile called Bowerman's Nose. A few stories have emerged in recent decades, such as the 'hairy hounds', that are said to attack travelers on the B3212 near Two Bridges. Dartmoor has inspired a number of artists and writers, such as Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's novel 'The Hound of the Baskervilles.' There is however some doubt about Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's novel and some critics believe it was not all his work? R D Blackmoor Eden Phillpotts, Beatrice Chase, Agatha Christie,  all have found literary inspiration on Dartmoor.

There is a long tradition of Dartmoor being used by the military, dating back to the Napoleonic wars. In 1805, Great Britain was at war with Napoleonic France; a conflict during which thousands of prisoners were taken and confined in prison “hulks” or derelict ships. This was considered unsafe, partially due to the proximity of the Royal Naval dockyard at Plymouth and as living conditions were appalling in the extreme, a prisoner of war depot was planned in the remote isolation of Dartmoor. In 1806 construction started, taking three years to complete. In 1809 the first French prisoners arrived. And were the first prisoners to see the dreaded inscription on the entrance to the prison: 'Abandon hope all ye who enter here,' and later they were joined by American POWs taken in the war of 1812. At one time the prison population numbered almost 6,000. Many prisoners died and were buried on the moor. Both French, and American, wars were concluded in 1815, and repatriations began. The prison then lay empty until 1850, when it was largely rebuilt and commissioned as a convict gaol. With the establishment of the prison farm in about 1852, all the prisoners remains were exhumed and re-interred in two cemeteries behind the prison. Dartmoor Prison, reckoned in Victorian times to be the hardest and most severe in England, has been in constant use from 1850 to the present day. In 1917 all convicts were withdrawn from Dartmoor, which was then used to confine 1100 conscientious objectors who refused military service. Until recently, Dartmoor Prison's inmates have been some of the most dangerous and notorious in English penal history.

There is still a large Army training camp at Okehampton, which was also the site of an airbase during the Second World War. The Ministry of Defense (MoD) uses three areas of the northern moor for man oeuvres and live-firing exercises, totaling 108.71 km² (41.9 mile²), or just over 11% of Dartmoor National Park. Red and white posts mark the boundaries of these military areas (shown on Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 maps). Flagpoles on many tors in, and around the ranges will fly red flags, when firing is taking place. At other times, members of the public are allowed access. Blank rounds may also be used, but the MoD has no obligation to alert the civilian population of this. Those wishing to walk in the firing areas are advised to check the firing times for the coming week by calling the MoD on 0800 4584868. And if you are out and about on Dartmoor and see a very fit, warlike band of young men, yompimg merrily? across the moor. they are in all probality, Royal Marine Commandos. Do not be alarmed I have it on good authority they are friendly. One can find further advice on these or any other questions you might have about Dartmoor, at the very informative official web site.

The Military also help to stage some charitable challenge events, which include the long established Ten Tors Race, ( a lot has been said and written about the decline of the youth of today, well come to this event and you will see the youth of our Country at its very best; bright articulate young people who pit their brain and body's againts the challenge that this event holds. )  And more recently the Army organized a search for the Beast of Dartmoor; even they could not prove or disprove if a beast infact exists?.
The very last Castle, to be built in England, Castle Drogo is situated at Teign Gorge, and has very dramatic views of the Moor. Drogo Castle, was built in between 1910-1920, by the famous architect Sir Edward Lutyens. Built entirely of local granite it is a very fine example of Lutyens work. Though in all honesty although it is called Castle Drogo, I think it should be regarded as a rich mans vanity. For it was built for  Julius Drewe(wealthy businessman and founder of the Home and Colonial Stores).

Like it's sister Exmoor , the moor has a population of wild ponies. The Dartmoor pony, has lived in southern Britain for centuries. And was believed to have been brought to the West Country by the Romans. It makes an excellent first pony for a child, and is used for a variety of disciplines. Because of the extreme weather conditions experienced on the moors, the Dartmoor is a particularly hardy breed with excellent stamina. Over the centuries it has been used as a working animal by local tin miners and quarry workers. Despite this, numbers have declined - from an estimated 25,800 in the 1930s to perhaps 5,000 today.

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