The Beautiful West Country

The Old Historic Market Town of Barnstaple North Devon

Town of Barnstaple

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The Town of Barnstaple. Or to give it its Saxon name 'Beardestaple,' (i.e. the market or staple of Bearda) or 'Barum' even as it is known locally:  The origin of this name is obscure, but has been in use since pre- Saxon times and is probably of Roman origin: By 1088, Barnstaple was important enough to have its own mint. And its wealth was founded on exporting wool. The Town was  mentioned by Shakespeare as Barum. The name Barum was revived and popularized in Victorian times, featuring in several novels of the time. The name is retained in the names of the towns football team, an brewery and several other local businesses. Barnstaple is not only the main town in North Devon, it is also the fastest growing town in Devon in terms of population. Barnstaple is situated either side of the River Taw 6 miles, from the open sea. The town is the beating heart of North Devon with roads from it leading to Ilfracombe, Lynton, Taunton, Tiverton, Exeter and Bideford. Barnstaple was always recognized, to be a place of strategic importance, and trade. The towns history dates back as far back as the Saxon period, with written records dating back to 930 A.D. ( the records relating to Barnstaple can be found in the Saxon Chronicles ) These chronicles tell us the the town was created by the Saxon king: "Alfred the Great." And that it was another Saxon King, ( 'King Athelestan' ) who awarded Barnstaple a charter.  In accordance with the terms of this charter, Barnstable was granted the rights to hold a Market, and Fair. Both of which are still held to this day. 'King Athelstan' also built the ancient priory at near by Pilton. Banstaples location on the Taw made it not only a very important trading center, but also central to the defense of the West Country. The reasons why the Saxons, fortified Barnstaple; was to protect the people, and town against those fierce Danish Raiders, otherwise know as the 'Vikings:  who regually raided the south west coast, causing great devastation. The 'Vikings' actually invaded the county at near by Instowe. Where they suffered a bloody, defeat at the hands of that great warrior King of the Saxon's "Alfred The Great."  Alfred the Great: was the king who did more than any other in our long history to unite the country, and certainly deserves the accolade 'The Great.' He was one of the first kings, who seems to have looked beyond his own personal glory, to a vision of the future: he held wise council, brought stability in troubled times, introduce new and fair laws, education, and although not confirmed, many historians believe he was responsible for the countrys first University in Oxford.

When the 'Normans' came to England in 1066, this proud  town which had with-stood Danish raids for so long finally fell. And in the year 1068, the 'Norman invaders' garrisoned the Town. They built a Bailly Castle, and Mottle on the grounds of a ancient Saxon burial mound. And duly recorded Barnstaple in the Domesday Book of 1088,. And the following text is taken from the Domesday Book. ("The King has a borough called Beardestaple which King Edward ( T.R.E. Tempor Regis Edwardi, Which is translated as the day King Edward was alive and is dated the 5th January 1066 ) The year the 'Normans' invaded. 'William the Conquer' held Barnstaple, for himself. And it was not until Henry the 1st, came to the throne that a first Lord of Barnstable was created. That being one Judhael of Totnes, who founded the priory of St Magdalene. Another Lord of Barnstable, was the uncle of William de Traccy. The man who slew Thomas a Becket: ( "Who will rid me of this meddlesome Priest" or was it," Who will rid me of this turbulent Priest," or even, "Who will rid me of this low born Priest ) all words attributed to Henry the 2nd. Whatever Henry said, or did not say. We all know that Thomas a Becket was slain in Canterbury Cathedral, on December the 29th 1170, by four Knights, one being William de Traccy who's sword is reputed to have killed the Archbishop.

By the 13th, 14th, and 15th, centuries Barnstaple, was a busy port exporting wool, pottery, and silver, that was mined near by in Coombe Martin. Barnstable ships, and sailors sailed along with their Appledore compatriots, to help Sir Francis Drake defeat the ' Spanish Armada. ' A naval victory that in my estimation, was more important than Nelson Victory at 'Trafalgar' in securing England from invasion. Another, though more modern sailor: was Sir Francis Chichester. Who was born in Barnstable: This remarkable man, was not only the first to sail single handed around the World in Gypsy Moth the 3rd,( on his return to Plymouth he received a 10 gun salute, and I am proud to say I was one of the gunner's who fired that salute.) He was only the second person to fly single handed to Australia. And if this was not enough, Sir Francis Chitchester,was the first person to fly long distance single handed in a sea plane. He flew from New Zealand, to Japan. A flight which was to end in disaster: for he sustained dreadful injuries when the plane came down in Katsuura Harbor. But thanks to dedicated Japanese medical care he recovered. In 1952, however, he faced his hardest challenge, for he was diagnosed with a serious lung disease. He refused surgery, and with his wifes, support and help fought back to fitness. In fact in 1960, he was fit, and able enough, to partake in the very first single handed Trans-Atlantic yatch race. Not only did he take part, but he won it, and in a record time of 40 days. Sir Francis Chitchester, died of lung cancer on the 26th of August 1972, in Plymouth. And all Devon mourned the loss of a much loved son. Yes an altogether extraordinary man of Devon was Sir Francis Chichester

What of modern day Barnstaple. Well it is a still a very busy, market town, and the main shopping center for the people of North Devon. With an excellent modern shopping mall, and all the high street stores  one will find in any high street in England. But somehow, Barnstaple has managed to absorb the old, and the new quite successfully. Even the modern shopping mall is not to intrusive. In my honest opinion the only buildings that are a eyesore, are the Civic Offices, and Police Headquarters!!!  'Barnstaple in Bloom,' is a particularly nice time to visit the town. For it is full of fragrant smells, and colour, for from early June, till after the annual chartered fair, which begins the first Wensday after the 20th, September, residents, and traders, fill the Town with flowers, you will find hanging baskets full of blooms outside the shops, and houses, a wonderful colourfull sight. Like so many North Devon's towns, Barnstaple also has a 'Panniers Market. Barnstaples market is particularly impressive. With it's huge glass roof, it has more in-common with a grandiose Victorian railway station. Each day the market has a different emphasis, which include amongst others crafts, and antiques. Opposite the market is the famous 'Butchers Row.' Butchers row is as the name suggests a long line of butchers shops. For in the 17th, 18th, and 19th, centuries it was not only produce, the farmers brought to market but livestock too, whence it was promptly slaughtered. A sort of medieval fast food service !!! For people who like to know panniers, were the wicker baskets local farmers wives used to bring their produce to the local market, hence the name 'Pannier Market'

There is also a long bridge crossing the Taw. Very similar to one in Bideford but it only has 16 arches, compared to Bidefords 24. And dates from about 1450,. However many of the towns buildings date from a earlier age. Buildings of particular interest, are the 14th, century Church of St Peter and St Paul, which had its spire twisted by a lightning strike. St Ann's Chaple, built in 1840, and which served for many years as The towns grammar school, John Gray the author of 'The Beggars Opera' was a pupil there. The town also has several other literary connections. A visit by William Shakespeare in 1605, led to him writing The Merchant of Venice. Shakespear was inspired by the bustling traders, and the narrow busy streets of the town. Another man of letters, Samuel Pepys the Diarist married a 15 year old Barnstaple girl in 1655. A slightly more modern building of distinction, is Queen Ann's Walk, opened in 1708, it was used by Barnstaple wool merchants, who agreed, that any deal verbally struck over the Tomb Stone was legally binding. It was from the the old quay in Barnstaple, that five Barnstaple ships, and their sailors, sailed, to join Drake and helped to defeat the 'Spanish Armada.' For apparently even as early as 1588, the message as depicted by Nelsons, signal to the fleet at Trafalgar. "England expects every man will do his duty" was very much in evidence.

The town, also has a Theater, Cinema, Museum, Leisure Center, great Pubs, and yes Night Clubs. One can also walk the 'Tarka Trail' a nice walk, in a area full of wildlife. And the inspiration behind that wonderfully moving and descriptive book, 'Tarka the Otter' by the writer Henry Williamson. The trail which meanders through some delightful, and varied Devonshire scenery, for over a hundred and eighty miles. It starts in Barnstaple, and near Bideford, you can see the canal bridge, where in the book 'Tarka' played. Although today it is a road bridge. And although the trail is too long for the casual walker. One will find in Barnstaple Tourist Information Center, plenty of information on nice easy casual day walks. Barnstaple is also the home of the famous Brannams, terracotta pottery. It was established in Barnstaple in 1879, and still uses local Fremington red clay today. Yes all in all Barnstaple, has all the holiday-maker needs. Plus all the holiday locations in  North Devon, mentioned in this website are within easy traveling distance from Barnstaple!

Town of Barnstaple
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