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Clovelly
is without doubt my favorite fishing village in North Devon: set among
400 ft cliffs, the ingenuity, and foresight it took to built this
unique
village is staggering, and for it to have survived the storms one
gets on the South West coast for 600 years, remarkable. Clovelly, is
today
part of a private estate, and a entrance fee is charged, but as part of
this fee helps to maintain this wonderful unique
village for posterity; who can complain? A word of caution to the
elderly, and infirm Clovelly Village, consists of one very steep hill
indeed, know to the inhabitants quaintly as, 'up along' and naturally
'down along,' all is not lost though for the estate has
thoughtfully provided a land rover service to take you down,
or up Covelly High Street,. I used this service after suffering a
broken
ankle( all say Ahh ) its excellent, and the driver friendly, and
welcoming ( a plug for Dave here.)
And a difficult task for me for is my vocabulary: or command of the
English language good enough to describe the wonder
of Clovelly. One really must visit to see its true beauty. 'Up Along'
and
'Down Along,' is very narrow, thoroughfare, consisting of
delightfully
painted
cottages, which are adorned in the summer with hanging baskets of
flowers,
transforming the village into a sea of colour and beauty. And there is
something, I think that is unique to this village sledges, are parked
outside each cottage, for the street being very narrow, and steep: is
to
dangerous in the winter for vehicles, so this is the way the
resident move goods, and provisions around clever, I think so,
(
laughing. ) When one reaches the harbour, the true delight that is
Clovelly, is set out before ones eyes: one can look up at
the
towering majestic cliffs, that are all around one, or walk along the
harbour
wall for the perfect sea view of Bideford Bay, Or even take a
boat trip around
Bideford Bay. And for the tired, and thirsty holiday maker respite, for
there is alway the local public house 'The Red Lion' where you can
relax, enjoy a meal or ( as in my case ) a beer, while you watch the
fishermen
repair their nets, or land the days catch for the sea, and
fishing are the reason for Clovelly existence.
Yes for centuries fishing has been the main industry, (not so
today as tourism has taken over as more people discover the beautiful
Clovelly ) though I believe a little bit skulldugery did go on in the
17th, and 18th, centuries. Yes I refer to smuggling. Bideford Bay,
provided
a safe haven for ships, from the pounding westerlies. But situated on
the
west of the bay is the village of Clovelly, and this beautiful village
had a dark side for it had a notorious reputation
as a smugglers haunt. And certainly many smugglers luggers, set out
from the well-protected harbour here. An interesting local
legend,
is one about cannibals
keeping tubs of salted human flesh in caves along the coast:
this
may well
have been spread by smugglers, themselves eager to keep inquisitive
visitors away
from
their hiding places: inquisitive visitors being of course the Revenue
men. Today locals will point out the smugglers cave to the curious,
its a good
walk east along the shore from the harbour. However I think the least
said
about smuggling the better the revenue men have very long
memories.
The well know actor Josh Ackland, is a resident of Clovelly. If you
do decide to visit Covelly, may I suggest a slight detour, please a
must place to visit
Hartland Point:, and near by Hartland Quay, here you will see the true
majesty
of the
North
Devon coast. At Hartland point is the lighthouse, and if you look down
from the viewing platform, directly below you will see the remains of
the
Panamanian coaster the ' Johana' 'which came to grief
here in 1982, the Panamanian freighter lost engine power is a
storm, and the fierce westerly winds soon drove her to
destruction on to the rocks. Thankfully all the crew were
rescued,
but it shows one that even in this
day and age sailors are still at the mercy of the sea's.
Not far from the point you come to Hartland Quay: actually there is not
a lot at the Quay, just a row of fishermens cottages, and a Public
House. But please believe me the views are absolutely breathtaking,
here one will see
every aspect of the North Devon coast, encapsulated in to
one. 300ft
cliffs, who's strata vividly depicts the Earths development over 300
million years. And on a clear day Lundy Island can be seen, but for me
Hartland Quay, is the place to be during a storm, for then the true
majesty, and ferocity of the Atlantic Ocean can be seen. Oh and the
Public House alone, is well worth a visit, living history before your
eyes.
Near-by Hartland Abbey is privately owned, but is open in the summer to
visitors,
but not every day I might add, so please ensure that the Abbey is open
if you plan a visit. Please do not miss these places in your hurry to
see Clovelly, they will not disappoint you.!

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