The Beautiful West Country

The Beautiful Twin Villages of Lynton & Lynmouth North Devon

Village of Lynmouth

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Lynton and Lynmouth as the names suggest both these pretty North Devon villages take their name from the River Lyn, which flows from the high moor. The twin villages of Lynton, and Lynmouth, were described in Victorian times, as the 'English Switzerland.' And like so many of the West Country resorts were 'discovered' during the 'Napoleonic Wars' when the fashionable French resorts, were denied to the wealthy: unable to visit France, they started to explore England. And the beauty of the West County, soon became apparent. Gradually they flocked to Lynton in such large numbers it soon gained the distinction of a small Town. Lynton, is where they stayed but it was in Lynton's beautiful little sister, Lynmouth, situated far below where they promenaded. Watersmeet,just as one enters Lynmouth, one will find a wonderful special place it's name, Watersmeet. And just as the name suggest it is the place where the East Lyn, West Lyn, and Hoare Oak Water, meet in a beautiful wooded valley, to make their way to the open sea. But in 1952 tragedy struck this beautiful tranquil spot. For after 48 hours of heavy rain water cascading off the high moors swelled the rivers causing the East Lyn to break her banks thus flooding the valley. People, and buildings, were swept away in the maelstrom. In all 28 people lost their lives on that tragic day. But they, and the events of that awful day are not forgotten. For a museum on Lynmouth's sea front acts as a memorial to them. The photograph of Lynmouth Village above is by kind permission of a great photographer Roy Churchill who's photographs can be viewed on the link on  right of screen

Lymouth is a very busy little place in the summer. For besides lying in a lovely coastal location, it is also one of North Devons many gateways on to Exmoor. There are plenty of souviner shops, and café's , for the holiday maker to browse, or eat in: and all the cafes, serve my favorite snack when I am not on yet another diet.!!! The famous, and delicious Devon cream tea's, any one feeling hungry, I am.? One can walk along Lynmouth's harbour wall and gaze up at the high cliffs of Exmoor or wonder at the quaint cliff railway. In fact if one is thinking of visiting Lynton the cliff railway is a great and exciting way for you to travel to Lynmouth's sister perched high above her. The railway was a gift from the media magnate Sir George Newens, powered by water each car has a 700 gallon water tank,that is filled at the top of the cliff and emptied at the bottom. Although the railway opened in 1890, it is still used today. And is a integral way of joining the twin villages.

But before you take a trip on the railway. I implore you take a few hours to explore Watersmeet. It will not disappoint you, this I can guarantee. It is some of the most fantastic scenery you will anywhere in the world. There is a nice café, and a more beautiful place to enjoy a snack, or have a meal, well sorry I can not think of one. All around the twin villages are plenty of register walks. And one I highly recommend is towards 'Hunters Inn' and the reward, after a long hot walk a great pint of beer in the Hunters Inn a walkers refuge, and you will meet walkers and people from all over the world for it is a favorite watering hole for casual and dedicated walkers to take a well earned rest. Last time I visited, it was on a very hot summers day, and I met a American couple who were walking the whole length of the south west coastal path. Who was it that once said, "only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun"?

Lynmouth, also has the Royal Lifeboat Service stationed in the village. And on the 12th of January 1889, the postmaster one Edward Pedder, received a telegram for the coxswain of the lifeboat one Jack Crocombe, which informed Jack, that a large freighter was in trouble off Porlock Weir, and the weather was so sever in the area that the Watchet lifeboat could not be launched, and the Lynmouth boat was the only one which could affect a rescue. But the gale was just as server at Lynmouth, and it was impossible to launch their boat. But Jack Crocombe and his crew would not hear of giving up on a rescue attempt. So it was decided to take the boat by road to the more sheltered Porlock Harbour  and launch from there. This meant getting all the men and horses, they could find and hauling a 10 ton lifeboat 13 miles. A route that included the ascending the 1 in 4 Countisbury Hill, and descending the 1 in 4 Porlock Hill. Eventually the boat aided by 100 men reached the top of Countibury Hill, but alas disaster struck when a wheel came off the cart and most of the men dispirited gave up. But 20 men plus the lifeboat crew refused to admit defeat, repaired the cart.

By the evening the boat had reached Porlock. They did not hesitate the lifeboat was immediately launched into the dark storm ravaged sea even though the men were exhausted wet and hungry. By this time the freighter, had managed to drop anchor off Hurleston Point, though it was perilously near the rocks. The ship 'Forrest Hall' was outward bound for Liverpool. ( my home port actually Yes I am a Liverpudlian or more commonly called a scouser ).  Because of the severity of the gale, the 'Forrest Hall' had been under tow down the Bristol Channel. When disaster struck the tow rope parted. And the "Forrest Hall" was in imminent danger of coming to grief on the dangerous rock's off Hurleston Point and as  I stated earlier the crew of the freighter managed to drop anchor. And as long as the anchor held the boat was safe. But never-the-less the Lynmouth lifeboat stood bye all night in case the anchor dragged. Thankfully however it held. At daybreak, the original tug, which had been frantically searching all night for its lost charge appeared on the scene. And the lifeboat crew helped to get a line aboard the freighter, they also helped the exhausted crew of the freighter to raise the anchor. Another tug was required, and obtained. Then with the ship safely under tow they set out for the port of Barry in South Wales, all the time they were accompanied by the lifeboat just in case the tow parted again. However with darkness falling the ships finally reached Barry and safety. Granted this is not a story of a heroic rescue, but it does show the true spirit, and determination, that drove men of Jakes ilk. Yes another remarkable feat performed with great bravery, and disregard, for their own safety by the men of the Lynmouth lifeboat service, and the men of the Royal Lifeboat Service everywhere.

The R. N. L. I . has always held a special place in my heart. For as a 5 year old growing up in New Brighton on the Wirral. I remember well one very very stormy January evening, when for the very first time in my young life. I heard dreaded bang of the maroon signal and our lounge glowed red. My father turned to me and said " get your coat. I am taking you to see a sight you will never forget". My Father was right. I have not ever forgot the sight I saw that night of the courageous men of the New Brighton station, of the River Mersey R.N.L.I. lifeboat service launching themselves, in to that terrifying storm tossed sea. It is especially humbling: when one remembers these brave men are all volunteers. Thankfully to-day these men have the finest equipment and boats that can be possibly provided by the R. N.L.I. And one must remember also  that the R. N. L. I. receive no government funding at all but rely solely on donations. And the fact that the R.N.L.I.. can provide the finest boats and equipment purely through donations, shows just how much we an Island race, hold the lifeboat service, and the men that serve in such high regard. For all that these brave men do is in the name of humanity.You can visit and support the lifeboat service on the right of screen link

Lynton, looks down on Lynmouth from a great hight, And believe me the road between them is another white knuckle ride, and the run-off's do not inspire confidence (laughing). Although some what over-shadowed by the infamous Porlock Hill, so is Lynton some what over-shadowed by its more picturesque neighbor. Lynton has many lovely guest houses to offer the visitor, a typical one being Fernleigh Guestv House, run by Ray & Kate and reasonably priced. there is a link to Ray and Kates website on the right of screen. Lynton never the less its own secret. Granted by the number of people who visit it each year it's not a very well kept secret. It is of course "The Valley of Rocks."  And if time could stand still this is where it has. The Valley is unspoilt as the day it was created, a place both spiritual and mysterious.The rocks even have names " Chimney Rock" "Ragged Jack" " Cheeswring" "Devils,Rock" the "Witch Rock" and "Castle Rock" but please don't ask which is which.? If one looks upward as one will. One will see the wild goats that have made their home here a wonderful sight. They will be surveying their domain watching you or doing what wild goat's do naturally. And no its not true that the Rocks have Blackpool running through them !!! .

Yes if you are tired, or in anyway dispirited this is the place to visit. It will re-energize, or uplift you thats guaranteed. And hey the sea views are not bad either. You can even watch a game of cricket if Lynton are playing at home, as their ground is at the entrance to the Valley. What stories and mysteries this place must hold. The Valley is very special to me its where I went to celebrate my divorce. ( joking )
Lynton & Lynmouth, are also one of North Devon's many gateways on to Exmoor. To find out more on Exmoor please click here Wonderful Exmoor    Withypool, Dunster 'Doone Country' and, Porlock are all within a easy drive across beautiful Exmoor. So why hesitate pay this beautiful place a visit this summer, for a wonderful holiday is guaranteed.!

Villages of Lynton & Lynmouth
West Country
Links
Roy Churchill Photographs
R N L I
Fernleigh Guest House